Taking it easy this weekend, so I spent the day in the shop redoing the planes that I had already cleaned up. Figured I could use spray paint with one hand. So I got the Stanley No.122 Liberty Plane, No. 35 Smoothing Plane, and a No. 27 Jack plane done today. I also got the Stanley No.110 and the No. 220 block plane done. Well almost. I need a new knob for the 110.

So here are a few before and after shots

The Stanley No.122 Liberty Bell Plane. This one has an Iron with a patent of 1876 on the blade.

Before

After

I am still dating this one, but I know it was not after 1890.

Then I did the No.35 Smoothing plane.

Before

And the After's

And I did the No.27 Jack Plane

Before

And the After's

The best I can tell all of these were made in the 1800's but I am still working on the exact dating.

Then I worked on the two block planes.

The first one was a Stanley No.110 that I picked up for a few dollars.

Before

And the After's

And then I started on the No.220

Before

After taking it apart I noticed the japanning was not as bad as I first thought. So I cleaned it up and left it as is.

The After's

The heal was the worst place and I decided to leave it as it for now.

So that is how I spent the day in the shop. I know they are not collectors now, but they sure look better to me, they will be on my shelf and I saved them from the firewood box.

---

John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Nuttin wrong with those John!!!! I love em. I like the way you cleaned up and painted the metal surfaces, but left the wood patina in and original. I made the mistake when I did a transition plane rehab, I sanded down the wood to make it look new, and it look horrible after that, I just threw it up into a dark area into my shop and walked away in disgust with myself, ruined a beautiful plane I did. But you did a bang up job on those, they can easily be considered users now once you get the irons honed and tuned up. Great job man.

I also love the Stanley stamping on the front of the plane, that is way cool.

---

John Morris

The Patriot Woodworker

/forums/uploads/ning-image001-11429-72.jpg">

John,

Sweeet!!!

Not bad for a one armed bandit.

Â

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

That last one is exactly the same as the one I sent Lt. Fallon!

---

Lew Kauffman-

Wood Turners Forum Host

Time Traveler and Purveyor of the Universe's Finest Custom Rolling Pins!

Thanks John, I used some Murphy's soap and oil on the wooden ones to clean them. It appears on most of them they have just dried out from sitting somewhere too long with no attention to them. I really didn't want to change the patina so I used a medium bristle brush, put them in a clamp so I could use my left hand and just gave them a good washing. Dried them off and them applied some BLO and rub it in with my hand then dried off the excess. I too really like the way it made the color come back and yet you can still see the dark places in the wood. If the japanning had not been so bad on them I would have left it but they were rusted and pitted. So I put five coats of the Dupli-Color Semi Gloss Ford Black motor paint on them. You wait about 15 minutes between coats. The site I read about using it said don't wait for more than an hour our you will be removing it and starting over. Even though it looks like you have too much paint on it, it shrinks as it dries. It really looks very close to the original japanning when you put it up to another plane.

I really like the way the stamped the front of those planes also. It is nice when you can get it to show up.

John Morris said:

Nuttin wrong with those John!!!! I love em. I like the way you cleaned up and painted the metal surfaces, but left the wood patina in and original. I made the mistake when I did a transition plane rehab, I sanded down the wood to make it look new, and it look horrible after that, I just threw it up into a dark area into my shop and walked away in disgust with myself, ruined a beautiful plane I did. But you did a bang up job on those, they can easily be considered users now once you get the irons honed and tuned up. Great job man.

I also love the Stanley stamping on the front of the plane, that is way cool.

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

---

John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Thanks Larry, that is about all I was able to do one handed. LOL

Larry Buskirk said:

John,

Sweeet!!!

Not bad for a one armed bandit.

Â

Larry

Old Woodworking Machinery Forum Host

---

John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

If the 1 stamped on the toe of the 122 dosn't match the other numbers (like they used two differant number sets) then it's type 1 or 2. If it has the eagle stamp on the toe it's type 1. Type 3 the numbers match on the toe. Or so I've read.

 I'll add one link for dating I found.

1 = 1876 to 86

2 = 86 to 91

3 = 92 to 99

http://www.richmondantiquetools.com/Liby%20Bell%20Type%20Study%20_2_.pdf

 

---

Good, Better, Best never let it rest

Till your Good is Better and your Better is Best.

Mark that is a great site and thanks for the link. I had not found that one yet.

I think as best I can tell this is a Type 2 but that is the best I can tell.

TYPE 1. 1876 to 1886
A. Trademark stamped on cutter
B. Lever cap has plain, ribbed back
* Decorative, cast cap screw
C. Spur is attached to cutter with a round, screwdriver-slotted nut and
has shoulders milled on flat to prevent rotation in cutter slot
* Cap iron has 9/16”wide slot to clear cutter nut
I. Eagle trademark and model number stamped on toe and
the “1” in the model number mismatches other numerals
TYPE 2. 1886 to 1891
All features of TYPE 1 except:
* Eagle is removed
N. New trademark stamped on toe and
the “1” in the model number still mismatches other numerals

The logo on the cutter is in almost a complete circle. It is hard to see in this picture because of the glare, but you can make out the circular logo. A second line in the circle has the Patent date of April 18, 1976.

The lever cap is plain on the back and ribbed.

Cap screw is cast.

The round slotted nut.

This side goes in the groove on the lever to move the cutter.

I can't honestly tell if the "1" is different than the "2" in style but I think it is. It doesn't appear to have the same type bottom and the curly at the top of the one, but it is hard to see clearly

So if that is all correct, it is a Type 2 between 1886 - 1891. So I guess it could be later than 1890 but not by much.

Thanks for the site, it really did help.

---

John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Kind of neat to know the age. Dosen't make it cut any better but it's neat to know that you have something made to commemorate the 100th anniversary of our country.

---

Good, Better, Best never let it rest

Till your Good is Better and your Better is Best.

Agreed Mark. Most likely it will never cut again. I will most likely put it in the display case and just enjoy it.

But who knows.

---

John Moody

Site Administrator

John Moody Woodworks

http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com